Rat trapping -
all you have to do is get a mousetrap, put a
small square of cheese on the pan, set it on
your countertop, and voila, your rat problem is
solved! No need to read further.
You're reading further. So, you've realized that
your cheese-laden mouse trap won't do the trick.
Okay them, I'll tell you the truth about rat
trapping - as with many endeavors, it's not
terribly hard once you know how it's done. First
of all, you'll want to use a proper trap. I will
outline them below. But first, a few photos:
Click the below photographs
for examples of how to properly trap rats:
Set the trap on the path next
to the chewed wire, where the rat frequents.
Traps bolted to the wall on
the pipes the rats were climbing into the attic.
Traps set on a roof, right
near the gap they were using to get into the
Lots of rats in this attic -
set lots of traps on the ducts, and get them
If you need professional help, consult my list
Directory of Rat Trappers
, which is
especially helpful for more complex tasks which
require full building and attic inspections and
exclusion repairs, such as when you have rats
in the attic
Now here is an analysis of the various types of
available rat traps:
I'll start right off with the
best type of trap. Snap traps are compact, they
kill the rat instantly (and are thus the most
humane of the lethal traps) and they can be set
in abundance. They are very effective if set
correctly. There's several types and brands of
rat traps, most of them invented in an effort to
"build a better mousetrap", but the truth is
that the old wooden standby is actually the
best, in my opinion. And this is coming from
someone who really likes the latest in high-tech
gadgetry. The reason the wood ones are so good
is because the pan tension can be set very
light, to catch those smaller rats or the ones
who cautiously nibble at the bait. Also, when
trapping in an attic, the flat wood bottom sits
more firmly on insulation (where rats travel)
than other brands. Other fancy brands tend to
have a single high tension setting and molded
plastic bottoms that don't fit as firmly on
insulation. Oh yes, and use a full-size rat
trap, one that can break your finger, not a
dinky little mouse trap.
Dumb type of trap. Pointless,
ineffective, and cruel. Why use a large sticky,
glue board, when a snap trap is so much more
effective? Rats step foot on the glue, then pull
their way off, leaving bits of fur or a leg
behind. Then they'll never go near a glueboard
again. If they do get stuck, they suffer as they
suffocate or starve to death. Just dumb, in my
Yes, I've used live cage
traps many times to successfully trap rats. Yes
it works, but it's harder to catch them with
cage traps, and oftentimes there's many rats,
and it's not always feasible to set dozens of
cage traps in an attic. Plus, if they're dead,
less chance that they work hard to chew their
way back in. And really, who wants to relocate a
disease-spreading rat that's acclimated toward
living in a house?
What Bait to Use?
This is actually not a
very important matter. Some less intelligent
trappers will make a big deal about bait, but
really, the primary factors are trap location,
type of placement, and leaving rats no choice
but to enter a trap. But if you must have an
answer, it is: peanut butter. Nothing will
perform better. Sure, you can use chocolate or
bacon or slim jims or pineapple or whatever
floats your boat, but bait really doesn't matter
much, and peanut butter is easy to apply, stays
on, stays fresh, and it's downright tasty to all
rodents, including rats.
How To Increase Success?
Now here's the
key: rats tend to travel the same routs over and
over. They have amazing path memory. That's why
they do so well in mazes in experiments. If you
set the trap in the middle of nowhere, you
probably won't trap the rat. Set the trap on the
path that the rats use over and over again!
These paths are easy to see for the experienced
rat trapper - paths and tunnels in attic
insulation, areas marked with brown grease
stains, urine, droppings, footprints, etc. Set
traps right on these pathways, and I guarantee
you do not need any bait at all. Oh, and if
you've sealed up the building, blocked off the
ways in and out, and they're stuck inside,
they'll get caught really easily, as they run
around with no way out and get desperate for
I also have a lot of information on rodent
control - rat and mouse control, on these pages:
How to get rats out
of the garage
Do rodents like rats
and mice feel pain?
What does rat
feces look like? Where is it found?
Do rodents eat
Do rats eat cheese?
Do they like it?
Do dogs keep rats and
Do rats dig holes?
Do rats destroy
insulation in the attic?
Will a rat chew
through the ceiling?
Do cats keep rats and
Can rats swim?
Do rats have bones? How
can they fit in such small holes?
What if you are bitten
by a rat
Do rats bite sleeping
How to get a rat
out of your bedroom
What attracts rats?
I operate a professional Orlando
company, specializing in
the extermination and complete control of rats
in the house
and especially, the most
common problem that we deal with trapping rats
in the attic. If you hear noises coming from the
attic, or hear rats
in the ceiling
, it's important to address
the matter right away. The problem will only get
worse if you leave it untreated with time. You
may want to know how
to kill rats
, but it's important to know
that it's not just about rats
, but rather rat prevention.
Yes, the rats must be removed via rat trapping,
but they must be sealed out of the building
entirely for the job to be complete with full
success rate. We deal with all rodents,
including mice. If you have a mouse problem,
such as mice in the
, and need to get
rid of mice
, we can provide that service
as well. We are experts at Orlando
, where the same rodent
trapping and exclusion principles apply.
For more rat control and trapping information,
go back to the Florida
rat control page
If you don't live in Orlando FL, click here for
Directory of Wildlife Trappers